sangeet ke samrat tansen ke nagar ki yatra
- Publishing Date: 06-May-2018
- Category: Art & Event
- Starting Date: 03-Aug-2014
- No of Days: 1 Day
- Location: Behat, Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh, India
To read the same blog in Hindi, go to setting gear showing on the right hand side and change the language selection to Hindi.
In my previous blog, I told you about all the places around Gwalior, in which I told you about the Tansen (emperor of music). Let's come with me to explore the city of Tansen.
All of you must have heard the name of Tansen somewhere, when Tansen sang the song, the lights started burning, it began to rain. Whose name is world famous, this great figure was born in the village of Behat near Gwalior in the family of Shree Mukund Mishra in 1506.
He took the initiation of music in his childhood with his Guru Sri Haridas Swami and then for years the town was honored with its voice, just because of this, the city of Gwalior is also known as the City of Music. There is also a college for studying music in Gwalior. In memory of Tansen, there is a concert held on every year either at Tansen's tomb or in his village, in which the great personalities associated with music from the country and abroad are invited.
How to reach:
Located 40 kilometers from Gwalior, Bhat is a small town in Gwalior district
Google map link to reach Behat from Morar via Baradari is available here
To go here, buses are available from Baradari and Amkho bus stand, you can also go through by your own vehicle, the road from Morar to Behat is in fine condition, the same road goes forward to the temple of Ratangarh.
One fine day, I decided to go to one of my friend's place, and during this visit we will cover Behat and Sankua as these places are situated on the way. On next Sunday morning, we got up early and got ready to go for our first stop i.e. Behat, home town of Tansen. From baradari, one road go towards Mao, Behat is situated on that road. Some places also recieve rainfall in the morning so the overall weather was so pleasant. We were enjoying the weather and going ahead.
On the way, we took a small tea break and then after a while and we reached Behat. This place is barely 400 - 500 meters away from the place of Tansen Sadhana Sthal. The road from Baradari to Behat is in good condition, so you can take your own bike or car upto this place. It is a quiet place situated in the middle of the forest, it is believed that Tansen used to practice music at this place, in today's date it is a protected monument, whose care is in the hands of Madhya Pradesh government.
There is a circular wall around the sadhana sthal, which has a gate at the main entrance. We parked our bike and walked through the gate, there was a unique peace in the atmosphere, there was a small pond in front of the gate of the sadhana sthal, in which some fish and turtles were swimming.
Entry gate of Tansen sadhna sthal. Pic courtesy: Patrika Gwalior
The first thing you see from the entry gate of sadhna sthal is put you in astonishment, and that thing was a Shiv temple whose two pillars in the back was in slant at around 45 degree, I witnessed such kind of temple for the first time in my life.
Sadhan sthal inside view. Pic courtesy: Patrika Gwalior
A question strike in my mind, why it is so, to calm this curiosity, I talked to some saints present there, then the fact that came out was a wonder in itself. You have heard somewhere, even if you do not hear it, I tell you, when Tansen sang the song, the lights started burning, it began to rain. Perhaps you will not believe all these things, but see the picture of this temple once, and the only reason for this was the strength of Tansen's voice.
The leaning temple
Tansen sits in front of this temple every day and performs music practise every day, the energy generated from that sadhana had so much power that the two pillars behind the temple had bowed around 45 degrees from its degree, and this temple is in a similar condition till date.
There is another story and according to that the 10 year old childhood boy Tanna aka Tansukh got the boon of God Bhole and became the music emperor Tansen. There is also a river beside the temple courtyard, which is named Jhilmil river, it is a rainy river, when I went here, it had a good amount of water in it.
There was a peace in the environment, because of the forest and the river being nearby, there is a lot of birds here, and these birds constantly release different types of sounds like singing songs.
Tansen'd potrait. Pic courtesy: Patrika Gwalior
This place is now like an ashram where some sadhus live, there are pictures of Tansen in many places in this ashram in which they are sitting and holding some musical instrument, it seems like you reached in the corridor of history, where Tansen is creating some magic by using his voice.
Looking at every part of the ashram, we came towards the Jhilmil river, the river's water was still here, and apart from 2 of us and some sadhu's, no one is here.
Me and Neha in front of Jhilmil river
After a while we got out of the main gate, there is a small ground like an open stadium, the Tansen Samaroh, which happens every year on the site of Tansen at Hazira, Gwalior. But sometimes the ceremony is held here, so for that this open stadium has been made.
There is a small fort in the village of Behat, which is also called Garhi, but due to lack of time, we can not see the fort.
There was a tease in my mind, every second Indian knows that the Beatles band had come to Rishikesh in India sometime and people go to see their ashram by purchasing the ticket, on the contrary, some of the selected people know about Tansen's ashram.
From here we come back to the village of Behat, from there we will move forward and the next stop will be "Sankua", it is a small but beautiful place on the banks of river Sindh, on the banks of river Sindh. This place is famous for the temples of Manas sons of Brahma ji on the banks of Sind river (Sanak, Sanandan, Sanatan, Sanatkumar). According to the people here, this is considered to be the nectar of the four Dhams, and people also say that the journey of four Dhams is incomplete without the visit here. Well, we do not do any dham just now, for us it is just like a dham.
The journey ends here, I hope you liked this trip. If you have any questions or suggestions in your mind, you can comment in the comment box below.
Happy traveling
Fir milege kahi kisi roj ghumte firte
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